Our recent getaway to the Island of Hawai’i was one for the books. We spent nearly all of our trip exploring the East Side of the island and fell in love with the wildly rugged scenery–caves, waterfalls, and volcanos, oh my! Here’s a brief outline of where we stayed, played, and ate.
HILO
Hilo sits just 45 minutes away from Volcanoes National Park and right along the coast making it an ideal base for adventuring. There are also plenty of cute boutiques and delicious eateries to help pass the time on rainy days. We were extra excited about the strong presence of Hawaiian culture and language in this area, let’s just say I stocked up on children’s books and materials in ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi (Hawaiian language). Our keiki are professional bookworms which made the rainy weather a breeze to deal with but it’s important to note that Hilo is often wet–be sure to pack rain gear so that your adventures carry on!
Where to Stay
We were lucky enough to rent all three of the ocean view cabins at Kulaniapia Farms. The cabins were simple yet stunning, true off-the-grid gems. The outdoor shower, bathroom, and kitchen facilities were all shared with the farmworkers but we loved interacting with their lively group. Finally, the property itself was a dream come true–just two minutes down the road from the farm was the rest of the property with an inn (if you prefer traditional lodging), bamboo trail, and waterfalls. We tried to spend as much time as possible around the river and falls–this private reserve was certainly a highlight of our entire trip.
Where to Play
First and foremost, Volcanoes National Park is not to be missed. One of the volcanoes is currently erupting and words cannot describe how breathtaking it was to observe this natural phenomenon in person, especially in the dark! One day we opted to go before dawn–watching the entire sky glow red before transforming into a tie dye tapestry at sunrise was an incredibly powerful experience. Within the park, we also loved moving through the Thurston Lava Tube. We only made it out to Volcanoes twice on this trip but we look forward to returning to do some of the hikes when it’s not storming.
Next, we were surprised about how accessible the waterfalls and caves were in Hilo. They were practically roadside. Rainbow Falls, ‘Akaka Falls, and Kaumana Caves could all be done in one day or visited more than once. We opted for the latter with Rainbow Falls to see it before and mid-storm. We also could have spent hours exploring Kaumana Caves. Last but not least, ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center was the perfect way to spend a rainy morning. The exhibits were interactive and integrated a good amount of Hawaiian culture and language–each of us learned a lot from our few hours there and the boys got to experience their first planetarium show!
Where to Eat
As true creatures of habit we absolutely would’ve eaten all of our meals at The Booch Bar–they’re open all day long plus their dishes were healthy and full of flavor. Saucy Dogs was another fun lunch option. And of course we had to make dinner reservations at Moon and Turtle for their incredibly inventive dishes to share. Finally, dessert lovers will be delighted with Nicoco Hawaiian Gelato as well as the famous mochi from Two Ladies Kitchen.
PĀHOA
Pāhoa is a tiny town 40 minutes southeast from Hilo–often referred to as the Wild West of Hawai’i. And wild and quirky it certainly was. If you’re looking for less amenities and more time soaking up nature, then this is the base for you. I quite enjoyed how often we found ourselves weaving between the jungle and the lava fields.
Where to Stay
A while back I read about an AirBNB on the Island of Hawai’i in an issue of Sunset Magazine. Well the stars finally aligned for us to spend time at The ‘Ohana House and what a unique stay it was. First off, it was located about 20 minutes outside of Pāhoa–way out past the end of the highway and directly on a lava field. There’s a small community over there living their off-the-grid dreams, I’d describe the local population as a group of folks seeking a counterculture lifestyle. The structure itself had a wonderful design that made the most of the small space plus the host was extremely responsive and helpful. Similar to the farm cabins we stayed in I’d say this stay was more like glamping except far out there.
Where to Play
Pāhoa is also 45 minutes away from Volcanoes National Park but there are a couple spots we are eager to return to even closer to town. The first are the Pohoiki Hot Springs–the only hot springs on the entire island and they’re heated by volcanic energy! The three pools are a mix of rainwater that flows through a collapsed lava tube and cool saltwater that makes it through the rocky sand. Our favorite of the three was the one tucked back into the jungle. They’re also a part of the beach park that features the youngest black sand beach.
Along the Puna Coast we found our favorite beach on the island–Kehena Beach. This small black sand beach is tucked between volcanic cliffs making it feel very cozy and hidden. The road here was quite picturesque as well! Just be sure to time your visit accordingly with the tides as once the tide is up you’d be trapped down there. To reach the beach you must park in the small lot on the road (marked by a retaining wall) then hike down a short but steep trail.
Where to Eat
As previously mentioned, this is a very rural area and the town is quite tiny. We loved the breakfast and lunch items at Tin Shack Bakery and brunch at Pele’s Kitchen was incredible. The farm to table approach of the latter combined with its funky atmosphere was truly special. Finally, we had a yummy Mexican dinner at Luquin’s. A friend highly recommended the lilikoi margarita with a li hing mui rim and it did not disappoint.
KOHALA COAST
We ended our trip with a one night stay at the luxurious Mauna Lani. I hope to stay again with our whole ‘ohana to write a solo feature on this property because I feel like there’s so much to share. The boys loved the pool and the grassy area–we barely saw them as they were busy playing with all of their new friends. They also really liked the honu (turtle) talk with the hotel’s resident marine biologist. And at last I’ll leave you with my favorite amenity there–the beach cruisers we used to explore the Kalāhuipua’a Historic Park. We were thoroughly impressed with the hotel’s intentional efforts of preserving the cultural history of Hawai’i.
FINAL TAKEAWAY
The Island of Hawai’i is the island you should visit to immerse yourself in the nature, language, history and culture of Hawai’i. When you do go, be sure to pop into a local shop to pick up a book or two of Hawaiian mo’olelo (legends)–it feels extra meaningful to experience each of these places knowing the stories behind them. Plus, you’ll surely learn some ‘Ōlelo Hawai’i along the way!
